Venice Vagabond

There is absolutely nothing I like better than getting lost in Venice! It is actually not that easy to do unless you just head out and try to go where you have never been by turning first this way then that down narrow calli (streets) without any destination in mind.  I am always surprised when I turn up an hour or two later at a known area or landmark in a place I did not think I was headed toward or even near.  After all, it is an island or a series 118 islands!  You can have adventures and see many many interesting sights, but you are never lost long.  I have loved every minute of my nearly 5 days here.  I really covered Venice as shown where pics were taken this week.  I also took water vaporetto on the Grand Canal.

Everywhere I walked and took pictures in 5 days!

On Sunday,  I headed towards the Jewish Ghetto in the Cannaregio area and eventually walked past one of the prettiest churches I have ever seen – S. Maria Assunta Ai Gestuiti - a Jesuit church.

 It was built around 1715-1729 to replace a church built around 1150.  The Jesuit church was a novelty as it has an unusual structure and
beautiful inlaid marbles of white and green, many of which create an impression of elegant tapestries. The Jesuits were suppressed in 1774 for supporting Pope Paul V against the Venetian Republic.  They returned in 1844. It has wonderful paintings, some by Titian, Tintoretto and others.

I am staying at my favorite hotel - The Abbazia near the train station.  The location is excellent and it was an old abby.  It was nice to see Matteo again who still works here.  I am reading "The Unfinished Palazzo" by Judith Macrell and it set the mood to visit that interesting building and modern art collection again. It’s preface sums up Venice to me: “A place of otherworldy beauty – a city floating in the sea, where solid stone dissolved into water and light….A favorite destination of poets and artists, promising an escape from the drabness and constraints of ordinary life.”

Select to see better

  I passed two scenes late in a day that could have been movie sets.  So much of Venice is like that.  The  Squero di San Trovaso is a small gondola boatyard that first opened in the 17th century.  There are few gondola boatyards left in the city, but this one is easy to find as it is near the Zattare.  A famous gelato stop is Nico's on the Zattare just around the corner.

In the 16th century there were nearly 10,000 of these boats plying the waters of Venice's canals.  Today, there are 350, and the job of gondoliers is still a coveted profession as it is passed down from father to son over the centuries. Now they just have to avoid all the motor craft on the water.

Monday ended up sunny and nice so I took a “hop on and off water taxi” (a 1^st for Venice) past the cruise ship area, the large lagoon, past St. Marco Square, around the interesting Arsenal  (where they built a ship in just one day in the 1500’s) and to Murano and back.  Met a nice young man from Algeria and we had a nice chat during the trip. I love Venice for walking – as my phone said I walked 18,899 steps Sunday (7.5 miles) and 14,214 – 5.2 miles on Monday.  Nearly that many on Tuesday.  Easy to do as everything is interesting to me and it is mostly flat.

Between 1637 and 1700, there were 140,000 inhabitants in Venice. One third was wealthy, with over a 1,000 males over 25 who made up the sovereign body of the Republic.   216 families, divided into 667 households were of noble rank.  You had to live in Venice for at least 25 years to become a true Venetian.  Today, there are 55,000 – 270,000 Venetians (depending on which news source) and over 20 million tourists a year. The best time to visit is actually in the winter months as June-August is impossible to me as you feel you are walking into a game between University of Alabama and Auburn with equal crowds trying to find a space to walk.

I visited a Vivaldi exhibit where numerous string instruments from the 14^thcentury

onwards were on display and a period workshop to view.

Venice has always been a favorite Italy city due to its uniqueness.  I am glad I had the opportunity to visit again when the tourist crowds were at a low.  I have to say, I have gone most everywhere I wanted in Italy during my extended time here during this sabbatical.  Italy is never boring.  Onwards to Aviano, seeing good friends, and packing out.  Tired of suitcase living and looking forward to being home soon.

 Just a few extra pictures out of many I have not downloaded yet.