I apologize for the length of this and will put it in 3 parts you can read at once or later.
I always kept a small block of marble on my desk as a reminder of my desire to someday learn the process and techniques of rock sculpture.
When I had the opportunity to spend several months in Italy, I decided this was the time to experience this "bucket list" item. I began to research possible locations. Villa La Rogaia has
a wonderful mix of opportunities for anyone seeking a different vacation from the usual sightseeing and is situated amid rolling hills, scenic vistas and beautiful sunsets in amazing Umbria. It is an old country house with outbuildings, a large garden and pool. You can relax in one of their well-appointed holiday apartments or take creative courses in Italian cooking, painting, rock sculpting or even intensive salsa and tango lessons.
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Main building |
In addition to my intensive sculpting lessons, all meals were included with excursions to Perugia or other nearby villages. A massage mid-week was a relief for sore muscles. The web information was well done and I signed up!
My experience began even before I left when Wolfgang, my instructor, emailed and we began planning what I might do for my individual stone carving project. He suggested a stylized “Brancusi-Muse“ face. I was not thrilled but did not have another alternative and felt he knew best. A few months later, I took the train from Florence to Passignano Sul Trasimeno , an historic picturesque village on Lake Trasimeno which is the 4thlargest lake in Italy.
Annette, from Villa La Rogaia was waiting at the Passignano Sul Trasimeno train station and warmly welcomed me. As we drove through the area, she told me about fishing and boating excursions on the lake, some of the history and how they came to live in this beautiful countryside. Umbria is the green heart of Italy with hardwoods, silvery olive groves and lighter green vineyards. Lake Trasimeno is enclosed by endless hills and charming little villages. Less crowded than Tuscany to the West, it is a haven for country holidays away from the bustle of tourists with half hidden retreats which offer a rare opportunity for relaxation, and short trips to Assisi, Perugia, Cortona, Arezzo, and Siena.
We drove higher and higher passing vineyards and olive groves with far views of Perugia and the lake view growing smaller in the distance. The last 2.5 km was a country road leading to La Rogaia.
I was shown to my spacious apartment “La Grapo”– perfect for 3 or more with a large bedroom, updated bathroom, kitchen and living area with an inviting patio. I was shown the pool area and also met “Mamma Ornella” a delightful cook gathering fresh herbs for our meal together the first night. She had been one of the reasons for my selection of this location, but she only cooked two night meals but we were served equally well by “Rosell”, a friendly Filipino who mostly spoke English.
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Path to my apartment |
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Mamma Ornella and Wolfgang |
At eight pm, the dinner bell rang and I walked past the lavender bushes to meet my instructor and the other participants. Rainer and Gaby are an attractive younger German couple who politely spoke English. We had appetizers and wine while we began to get acquainted and visited with Annette, Wolfgang's wife. Wolfgang, our instructor, joined the group and we soon sat down to a wonderful meal with pasta, meat, potatoes and a very nice dessert. As the night lingered we discussed politics, our work, and the tango classes they have. Wolfgang discussed the week’s work. Ideally, it is best to take it with you and I had not considered that enough beforehand. Enjoyable night and everyone was friendly and nice. Slept well.
It is hard to describe my nervousness as I walked past garden sculptures to my first class the next morning. Wolfgang had our marble work area ready to view and went over his plan of teaching with each of us. He gave us our set of tools and showed us how to sharpen them in his workshop. My stone looked huge and forbidding. We returned to our stones.
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A good chip |
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Smiling while kicking self |
This was hard slow work, chipping off areas of stone to reveal the shape. By lunchtime, I had barely made a dent in my project and I wondered if I was up to this. Any beginner can do it with taught techniques, lots of patience and time. Anyone who knows me knows patience is not a strong trait of mine.
My first day was an eyeopener – first with how hard it is to make something from a block of marble using a hand tool and a hammer alone. Chip by chip, bit by bit for almost 8 hours. We worked from 9:30 – 1:00, had a light lunch, then an hour’s rest and returned at 3:30. We finally stopped at 7:00 pm when Wolfgang announced we were going to a restaurant in 30 minutes! A shower and a glass of wine would have suited me better at that moment but I was just happy we were finally done for the day.

I was exhausted but enjoyed watching the Italian families having a great time. We made it home by 11 pm and I fell into bed.
Part 2 will include my progress as well as that of my more talented fellow- students.
Part 3 will show our completed projects and how much I learned about myself and the fine art of chipping away stone to reveal a finished sculpture.
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